Nestled deep in the verdant countryside of Devon, England has revealed one of its most unique and charming travel experiences—a request-stop train station leading directly to a centuries-old pub. Far removed from the bustle of typical tourist trails, The Portsmouth Arms is a historic alehouse with a twist: it shares its name and location with a rare operational request stop on the scenic Tarka Line.
This extraordinary experience invites adventurous travelers to step off the train and into history, where cask ales, rustic charm, and sweeping rural views await. It’s an immersive blend of transport nostalgia, regional tradition, and pub culture, making it one of the UK’s most authentic countryside escapes.
A Pub Where Trains Stop Only If You Ask
Unlike any typical British pub visit, getting to The Portsmouth Arms requires planning and purpose. The Portsmouth Arms railway station is one of the few remaining flag stops in the UK rail system, meaning trains will only halt if passengers request it in advance or alert the conductor en route. The station is served by Great Western Railway trains on the Tarka Line, which stretches from Exeter to Barnstaple.
Situated between the small villages of Burrington and Umberleigh, the location is free from modern urban noise. No shops, no chain restaurants—just open fields, tranquil nature, and one extraordinary pub.
The Rail Ale Trail, a tourism initiative promoting travel and traditional pubs across the UK, has spotlighted The Portsmouth Arms for good reason: it remains a living relic of British rail and ale history, uniquely positioned for those seeking an unforgettable off-the-grid adventure.
The Historic Tale Behind The Portsmouth Arms
The pub’s story is as compelling as its location. Back in the 1800s, the land around the station belonged to the 5th Earl of Portsmouth, Isaac Newton Wallop, a powerful aristocrat with deep roots in Devon. When railway builders requested passage through his estate, he negotiated an unusual deal: in exchange for land rights, trains would stop by request at a station of his choosing—right next to his favorite pub.
The railway opened in 1854, and the arrangement has been honored ever since. While modern rail protocols no longer favor aristocratic whimsy, this piece of noble history remains intact. The result is a rail-accessible pub few people know about, and even fewer have visited.
Ale, Ambience, and Authentic English Fare
Once you step off the train, you’re immediately immersed in a different era. The Portsmouth Arms pub, with its timber beams, low ceilings, and stone walls, radiates rustic English charm. The building has served as a toll house, brothel, and inn before becoming a licensed pub in 1869. Every room whispers of stories past—some recorded, many rumored, all part of its unique identity.
Now run by Steve and Karen Anscombe, the pub has been lovingly restored while preserving its traditional character. Inside, you’ll find:
- Locally brewed ales served from cask
- Homecooked meals including Sunday roasts
- Cosy fireplaces, vintage decor, and historical memorabilia
- A peaceful beer garden perfect for warmer months
- A rotating selection of guest beers and ciders from Devon and beyond
Visitors include not only train passengers but also hikers, cyclists, history buffs, and ale enthusiasts looking for a true slice of rural England.
How to Plan Your Visit to the Portsmouth Arms
To visit, you’ll need to catch a train on the Tarka Line, which offers one of England’s most scenic rural rail journeys. Trains run regularly between Exeter St Davids and Barnstaple, with Portsmouth Arms Station listed as a request stop.
Here’s how it works:
- If boarding from Exeter, inform train staff you want to alight at Portsmouth Arms.
- If boarding from Barnstaple, signal the driver by standing clearly on the platform.
- To return, request the stop again in advance, or signal from the platform using the old-fashioned method.
Travelers are encouraged to check Great Western Railway timetables and confirm train availability, especially on weekends and public holidays.
Why This Journey Stands Out
The Portsmouth Arms experience is more than a novelty—it’s a celebration of slower travel, local culture, and British heritage. As modern tourism becomes increasingly fast-paced and digital, this pub stop feels like a breath of fresh air—both literally and metaphorically.
It’s one of those rare places where the journey is as remarkable as the destination. Whether you arrive for a pint, a plate of roast beef, or just the sheer joy of stepping onto a railway platform hidden in the woods, you’ll leave with a story to tell.
A Growing Trend in Experiential Rail Travel
The Portsmouth Arms is part of a larger movement across England to preserve and promote rural railway stations. According to the Rail Delivery Group and VisitEngland, interest in heritage railways, scenic train routes, and request-stop experiences has grown since the pandemic, as travelers seek meaningful, local adventures.
With initiatives like the Tarka Line Rail Ale Trail, the UK is blending two beloved traditions—railway travel and local pub culture—into a tourism experience that supports rural economies while delighting intrepid explorers.
Final Thoughts
For those in search of a truly unforgettable, lesser-known travel experience in England, The Portsmouth Arms in Devon is a destination worth making the detour for. From its historic railway stop and aristocratic origin story to its home-cooked meals and peaceful countryside surroundings, it offers a rare connection between past and present.
So next time you’re planning an adventure in the UK, skip the typical city break—and request the stop where tradition, ale, and timeless English charm still rule the tracks.
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